Beauty Blog

Copernicia Cerifera Wax, also called Carnauba Wax, is obtained from the leaves of the Brazilian tropical palm tree, Copernicia Cerifera. The wax is harvested by hand during the dry months of September through February when the leaves are sun-dried and beaten to release the wax. The process doesn't harm the tree. It is used in the formulation of a wide range of products including baby products, bath products, lipstick, makeup, fragrances, coloring and non-coloring hair products, nail and skin care products, personal cleanliness products, and shaving products. Carnauba wax has a high melting point, which makes it ideal for improving the thermostability of your cosmetics. A high melting point allows products like lip balms, deodorants, makeup, and even candles to be heated to a high temperature while maintaining their composition. This improves their shelf life and shape. Waxes help to keep an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, especially in cosmetics and personal care products that require a creamy consistency. These waxes also increase the thickness of the lipid (oil) portion of solid and stick-like products such as lipstick, giving them structure, allowing for a smooth application, and keeping them solid. When used in eye makeup, the waxes stiffen but do not harden the product, and the flexibility and plasticity of the waxes facilitate application. These waxes may also function in depilatory products to remove unwanted hair mechanically. Carnauba Wax is the hardest of the commercial vegetable waxes. It is a tough, amorphous, lustrous wax that varies in color from dirty yellow to brown, green, or white. This wax is sometimes called Brazil Wax.

Cocamide DEA, or cocamide diethanolamine, is a fatty acid derivative that is used in many cosmetics and personal care products, including shampoos, hand soaps, hair dyes, bath products, and lotions. It's used as a foaming agent, emulsifying agent, and surfactant to help keep products stable, thicken them, and reduce surface tension between compounds. Foaming agent: Increases foaming capacity and stabilizes foam. Emulsifying agent: Helps keep ingredients blended and prevents them from separating. Surfactant: Reduces surface tension between different compounds Cocamide DEA is a viscous, amber-colored liquid that comes from coconut oil. It's made by chemically altering the fatty acids in coconut oil with a chemical called ethanolamine or diethanolamine. The process creates foaming agents and emulsifying agents. According to the FDA, there's no reason to be concerned about the use of cocamide DEA in cosmetics. However, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Board says that cocamide DEA can react with other ingredients to create harmful substances called nitrosamines. The CIR Expert Panel concluded that cocamide DEA is safe in rinse-off products and in leave-on products at concentrations of 10% or less. However, cocamide DEA has been rated as moderate for cancer and allergies, and immunotoxicity, and high for use restrictions. The State of California also lists cocamide DEA as a chemical known to cause cancer or birth defects. Be sure to read the label on your personal care products. .

Cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB) is an organic compound derived from coconut oil that you can find in a many of your "natural" "organic" skin care and hair care products. CAPB is created by mixing raw coconut oil and dimethylaminopropylamine, creating what is known as an amphoteric surfactant. When used in shampoos and soaps, it creates a thick lather. When used in a conditioner, it becomes an anti-static agent. Cocamidopropyl betaine may be plant-derived or synthetic, with either form considered generally safe for use in cosmetic products. It is considered low risk for sensitizing skin, although impurities resulting from poor manufacturing can increase the risk. CAPB has been known to cause allergic reactions in some users. There have been studies done related to this ingredient that in certain cases it may cause irritant skin reactions, such as rashes. It may also cause significant eye irritation. Cocamidopropyl betaine was voted 2004 Allergen of the Year by the American Contact Dermatitis Society.

There is so much chemistry, legislation, and biology related to color additives in cosmetics that it can be very difficult to understand. The complexity of color additives issues also makes it difficult for the ordinary consumer to know that their cosmetics are really safe. Knock-off cosmetics not made in the USA do not generally abide by FDA regulations. First, know that color additives in cosmetics include dyes and pigments. This group of ingredients is the most tightly regulated group in the cosmetic industry today. All color additives for cosmetics must be specifically pre-approved for use by the Food and Drug Administration. The Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act governs cosmetics and requires that the FDA issue a specific regulation for each color additive that prescribes its conditions of use and the specifications for its safe use, i.e. the color may be approved for use on cheeks, but not on lips. A little cosmetic history: Going back to 4000 BC, Egyptian women applied galena mesdemet (from copper and lead), malachite (from copper), and other naturally occurring colors (e.g. paprika) to their faces, often signifying their class. Moving through history, ingredients like henna dyes or rice powders have been seen in many cultures, including China, Japan, India, and North Africa. By the 1500s, European women often lightened their skin with a variety of colored products, including white lead paint. Queen Elizabeth I of England was a well-known white lead user, which may have also been a product that led to her death. By the 1800s, zinc oxide began to replace some of the deadly lead and copper white mixtures that had killed many women in previous years. In 1856, the first synthetic dye, mauve, was discovered and similar dye discoveries quickly followed. Due to the fact that these dyes were initially produced from byproducts of coal processing, they were labeled "coal-tar dyes". By the 1900s, many artificially colored cosmetics became available and quickly began to grow in popularity. After a number of cases of consumers getting sick from their cosmetic products, the ingredients were assessed to find that many synthetic colors contained a variety of poisonous chemicals, for example, lead, arsenic, and mercury. The Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act of 1938 was passed to regulate specifically cosmetics. By the 1960s, new amendments came about to prohibit the use of color additives demonstrated to be a carcinogen. Today, color additives are very tightly regulated due to the historical risks of these ingredients. There is currently a long list of color additives that aren't allowed in cosmetic products. Due to demonstrated risks of contamination with heavy metals, once naturally derived ingredients, for example, Iron Oxides, have to be now made in a lab to ensure consumer safety. As a result, aside from botanicals, which generally aren't used in make-up due to their drawbacks (e.g. poor mixing and staining abilities plus possibilities of skin irritation or smell), store-bought "all-natural" makeup doesn't really exist anymore. The official names for other color additives in the U.S. are also designated by the FDA. Colors subject to batch certification are designated as FD&C (food, drug, and cosmetics), D&C (drug and cosmetics), or Ext. D&C (external drugs and cosmetics). This is followed by a color designation, such as blue or red, and by No. (for number), and by a numeral. An example of such a name is FD&C Red No. 40. Colors made by combining these "straight" colors with "substrates" (sodium, potassium, aluminum, barium, calcium strontium, or zirconium) are known as "lakes" and are named using the same convention, but with the addition of the word lake and the substrate, for example, FD&C Red No. 40 Aluminum Lake. Natural botanical colors approved by the FDA include: Annatto is a yellow-to-orange colorant derived from the evergreen shrub Bixa Orellana. Carmine is a chemical lake that has a unique blue shade of red and stands apart from other natural colorants, which tend to be duller. It is derived from the extract of dried female cochineal beetles found in Peru. It takes approximately 155,000 beetles to make one kilogram of carmine. Carmine is not considered when products claim no animal-derived ingredients or are cruelty-free due to their insect origins. Henna is a dye extracted from the henna plant. It is used to color hair and a temporary dye on the skin. Its use in the US is limited to hair applications and is specifically prohibited from use on eyelashes or brows because of the concern for eye irritation. Beta-Carotene is a yellow to orange pigment that is obtained from the fungus Blakeslea trispora. Caramel is a brown colorant made by burning of sugar. Guaiazulene is a derivative of azulene, a component of chamomile. It is a blue colorant that is approved for external use only in the US. At a cost of over $200 per kilogram, it has very limited use. Guanine is a natural pearl pigment made from the scales of herring, sturgeon, or salmon fish.

Cyclopentasiloxane, also called octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, or D5 is one of many "siloxanes", which are made up of silicon, oxygen, and alkane. In other words, it's a silicone-based ingredient used in cosmetics, deodorants, defoamers, lubricants, and soaps to soften, smooth, and moisten. Silicon is a nonmetallic element that is abundant on Earth. Siloxanes make hair products dry more quickly and deodorant creams slide on more easily. When applied to the skin and hair, it gives a silky and slippery feeling to the touch and acts as a mild water repellent by forming a protective barrier on the skin. It can also fill in fine lines and wrinkles, giving the face a temporary "plump" look. Manufacturers also use it as a solvent to help deliver active ingredients in a product to the skin or hair. On the whole, these siloxanes are not going to hurt you. However, it is important to understand that the chemical does not nourish or exfoliate skin the way vitamin A or vitamin E would do. Instead, the silicone often acts as a waterproofing agent, lubricates the skin, and offers a temporary shine. It does the same in hair products. In other words, it may give your skin or hair a smoothing effect and shiny appearance, but it is not actually "healing". It's purely a temporary fix. Also, since it does form a barrier on top of your skin, to help with hydration, it can also trap dirt and bacteria. It is important to use a good cleanser to wash your face each night when using foundation or other cosmetics that contain silicones. This will also allow your skin to "breathe" overnight. Should you use hair care products that contain silicones? They are safe, but if your hair is truly damaged, well, why pretend your hair is shiny and healthy when you can get the real thing with products that actually heal your hair? If you decide you want to avoid Cyclopentasiloxane or other silicones, then there are manufacturers that now are using more organic ingredients. They may be a bit more expensive, but you may find it worth it. Stay educated about what you're putting on your hair and skin with the Beauty Care Choices "Clean Beauty" Tab and shop-avoiding ingredients you're not interested in!

Keratin is the type of protein that makes up your hair, skin, and nails. Keratin is a protective protein, less prone to scratching or tearing than other types of cells your body produces. Hair is composed mainly of keratin protein and a small amount of lipid. They protect hair against chemical and environmental damage. Those who use a shampoo & conditioner or hair mask's containing keratin on their hair report that their hair is smoother and easier to manage as a result. The effects vary greatly depending on whether your hair is healthy to begin with, what the natural thickness of your hair is, and what kind of keratin treatment you use. Keratin works by smoothing down the cells that overlap to form your hair strands. The layers of cells, called the hair cuticle, absorb the keratin, resulting in hair that looks full and glossy. Keratin also claims to make curly hair less frizzy, easier to style, and straighter in appearance. Keratin can also strengthen your hair and make it look healthier. So...is it true? Is there science to back it up? The Science Many types of protein hydrolysates (keratin) from plants and animals have been used in hair and personal care such as keratin hydrolysates obtained from nails, horns and wool. Most of these hydrolysates are obtained by chemical hydrolysis and hydrothermal methods. A newer method, using "enzymatic hydrolysis" and feathers has, according to a study published (2013) in the US National Library of Medicine: "the enzymatic method to produce keratin peptides for hair care products is an attractive and eco-friendly method with a great potential in the cosmetic industry." In reporting their test results, they went on to say, "A mild shampoo and a rinse off conditioner were formulated with the enzymatic hydrolysate and applied to hair fibers to evaluate the hydration, with and without heat. The hydration was more efficient with heat, suggesting a more complete incorporation of hydrolysates into the fibers. Scanning Electron Microscopy showed deposits of organic matter in the junction of the cuticles that probably collaborates to the sealing of the cuticles, increasing the brightness and softness." So...is it true? Is there science to back it up? Yes!

KOHL - Beware of Lead Poisoning! You may be unaware of the lead poisoning risk, in adults and children, from an avoidable source: traditional eye cosmetics containing kohl (aka: kajal, al-kahal, surma, tiro, tozali, or kwalli). Kohl Eyeliner has been traditionally used throughout the Middle East, South West Asia, and North and West Africa for centuries by women, and sometimes men and children. Not only is it used for beauty, but it is also believed to protect the eyes from the sun, prevent eye disease and infection, and for superstitious reasons. It is also used to treat cuts and as a general antibacterial agent. It is a tradition that goes as far back as makeup itself and is sometimes worn simply for tradition's sake. What most people still don't know is that much of the world's kohl eyeliner contains toxic lead , and sometimes accounts for more than half of the total weight of the product! What are the effects of lead poisoning? The risks associated with exposure to lead are especially serious for children. Among the effects associated with high levels of lead exposure are anemia, kidney problems, and neurological damage that may include seizures, coma, and death. Even at relatively low levels, chronic exposure to lead may lead to learning and behavior problems. The Centers for Disease Control (CDC) has set a blood lead level of 5 micrograms per deciliter in children as the reference level at which CDC recommends initiating public health actions. If someone in my family has been exposed to one of these products, what should I do? There are two important steps to take against exposure to kohl and similar products: Stop using the product immediately and be especially careful to protect the user from further exposure. Ask a healthcare provider to test you for lead poisoning if you have used the product. You will receive further recommendations based on the results of your laboratory tests. Are these products legal in the United States? No. Here's why: . The FDA has identified kohl, kajal, Surma, and similar materials as illegal color additives as defined in the law. Color additives must be approved by the FDA and listed in the color additive regulations before they are allowed in cosmetics or any other FDA-regulated products. The difference between traditional and modern eyeliner. Traditional kohl is quite different from modern eyeliner. First, kohl is usually in powder form, and is applied with a stick. It can be purchased at various ethnic markets, gift shops, and online. Modern liners undergo strict product controls and have not been found to contain lead. Some companies label eyeliners with the word "kohl" just to indicate a shade, not because the product actually contains kohl. What does this mean to you? Traditional kohl liners have made their way to other parts of the world, including European and North American countries; and Canada is no exception! Back in 2005, Health Canada discovered 3 kinds of Kohl eyeliners containing lead being sold in Canada, and they suspect there are still others that they don't know about! These and many other unsafe products are snuck into countries where they are illegal all the time, and right under the authority's noses. The United States requires cosmetics to put the ingredients on their labels. Do NOT buy cosmetics online from UNKNOWN sources. Even if you think you are safe, you don't always know what you are getting. Many products bought online are counterfeit (fake). Counterfeiting is big business worldwide, and you better believe that they don't care about your health or well-being. .

We get it: once you find that perfect makeup item, whether it's the perfect shade of red lipstick or the no-flake mascara that makes you look like you're wearing falsies, it's tempting to hang on to it until it runs out. After all, replacing old or expired makeup every few months is expensive, so it's not surprising that one study found that 98 percent of women have used makeup past its expiration date. But when you apply old mascara or lipstick, you're also applying all the bacteria that's been growing on it while it chills at the bottom of your makeup bag. And no matter what brand you buy or how much you spend on your products, it's going to happen. The natural oils from within your skin carry bacteria to the skin' surface to be cleaned away, but some of that oil stays behind. So, when you use your brush to apply your blush, apply to one cheek, then "double-dip" the same brush to do the other cheek, those oils (and their bacteria) are transferred onto the blush. What besides double-dipping can allow bacteria to form in your make-up? A sudden, un-controllable sneeze or cough while applying makeup can leave germs and bacteria on the surface. Skincare products you use before makeup application can contain bacteria which then cross-contaminate your makeup (especially when using a sponge or a puff for application). Your hands are always carrying bacteria and those bacteria are transferring into your products. (Particularly if you use your fingers to apply makeup!). Re-applying lipstick or lip gloss after eating could lead to food particles and possible bacteria on your lipstick. What types of bacteria are we taking about? The 6 types most common type of bacteria found lurking in beauty products are: . Enterococcus faecalis - one of the main causes of the meningitis infection. Eubacterium - which causes bacterial vaginosis. Aeromonas - one of the causes of gastroenteritis and wound infections. Staphlyoccocus epidermidis - a nasty bug which is resistant to antibiotics and is deadly for people in hospital or who have catheters or surgical implants. Propionibacterium - one of the main causes of acne and other skin conditions. Enterobacter - causes urinary and respiratory tract infections, mainly in hospitalized patients with compromised immune systems. How can you protect yourself from these bacteria? Don't share cosmetics. You may be sharing germs. Replace make-up that is outdated.> The FDA also recommends: . Don't add water or saliva to cosmetics, such as mascara. You may be adding bacteria or other microorganisms. You'll also be watering down a preservative that's intended to keep bacteria from growing. Store cosmetics carefully. If cosmetics get too warm, some microorganisms may grow faster and preservatives may break down. Keep containers clean. Wash your hands before applying cosmetics, especially if you need to dip your fingers into the container. Pay attention to recalls and safety alerts. Microbial contamination is a common reason for recalls of cosmetics. Here are two ways to stay informed:.

Cottage cheese...orange peel...by any other name, cellulite may still throw the perfectly sane into a tizzy as winter pants and coats come off and far more revealing attire is worn for spring and summer. A barrage of products and procedures promise to seek out and destroy the lumpy fat on thighs, bottoms, arms and tummies, but a miracle cellulite assassin has still yet to be found. Despite the vast amounts of time and money that have gone into trying to find ways to dissolve these nuisance nodules - from lasers to caffeine creams - researchers and doctors are still scratching their heads. What exactly is cellulite? It's a condition that affects 90 percent of women and 10 percent of men, mostly in industrial nations. As women start approaching menopause, estrogen starts decreasing. From 25 to 35 is when you start seeing the appearance of cellulite. Estrogen has an impact on the blood vessels. When estrogen starts to decrease, you lose receptors in blood vessels and thighs, so you have decreased circulation. With decreased circulation you get less oxygen and nutrition to that area, and with that we see a decrease in collagen production. fat cells start becoming larger, they begin protruding through the collagen and become the bumpy fat known as cellulite. Why do women get cellulite more than men? Collagen, the main protein of connective tissue, in women has the appearance of a picket fence, whereas in men it looks more liked a cross-linked fence. The cross-linked structure is much stronger and will hold fat in better. Another reason women get cellulite has to do with the two kinds of adrenergic receptors, Alpha & Beta. When stimulated, alpha receptors will cause fat cells to produce fat, as well as triggering constriction of blood vessels and release of sugar into the bloodstream. When beta receptors are stimulated, they break down fat, as well as increasing heart rate and relaxing blood vessels. In women, for every one beta receptor in the thigh, there are nine alpha receptors. Estrogen also makes fat whereas testosterone breaks down fat. So a women's body is basically - and I hate to say it - genetically designed to be a place for cellulite to develop. Men have one layer of fat throughout their entire body and a one-to-one alpha- and beta-receptor ratio. Women tend to get cellulite around knees, saddlebags and buttocks, because they have three layers of fat in these areas, instead of just one. Women also have three levels of fat in the stomach and in the triceps areas. Many women wear regular underwear with elastic across the buttocks. When you see panty lines, it's cutting off circulation - just think what it's doing to your body. Look, take a tourniquet, put it around your leg and see what happens. And a lot of women wear underwear under panty hose. The panty hose force the lymphatic drainage back into the body. It's like turning the hose on and clamping it so every thing gets backed up. Cellulite didn't become a problem until the 1970s and 1980s when the diet and activity and underwear started changing. Back in the '20s, women wore longer skirts and the underwear was loose, almost like pajamas. Cellulite is always underneath where the elastics go, and if you draw an invisible line where the cellulite is, you will see where the panty lines are. Do creams - thigh creams, caffeine creams - really work? Most all creams will only address the fat. Those with L-Carnitine transport fats into the cells' mitochondria to be used as energy. Caffeine creams will help by blocking the making of fats by the alpha receptors. Some creams have aminophylline, (a compound in some respiratory drugs) which, like caffeine, works by blocking the alpha receptors. In most creams, you find some way of targeting only the fat cells, but they do not address the connective tissue or circulation aspects of cellulite. What other treatments are there for cellulite? There are three treatable components of cellulite: You have to address the collagen; you have to reduce the fat, and you have to increase circulation. But it depends on the grade of cellulite you have. There are four grades, ranging from zero to three: Grade zero is no visible cellulite. If you pinch the skin and see a cottage cheese-like texture - that's grade one. Grade two is if cellulite is visible on the legs of someone standing. Grade three is if you see cellulite when you look in the mirror or lie down. I call grade three "terminal," because it's very hard to treat. Machines to treat cellulite include vacuum rolling and radio waves to break up the fat. The first one of them on the market was Endermologie. When you're vacuuming and rolling the skin, you're increasing circulation, and the heat helps to break down the fat, which smooths out the skin. The downside to the machines is you have to go once a month [for at least several years]. What about lasers, injections and surgery? Laser treatments are combined with massage and rolling; they either do suction or rolling and use radio waves and heat up the fat - put fat on a stove in a frying pan, and it melts. These treatments heat it up and try to break it down that way, and use section and rollers to try to force it out of the puckered near-skin area. "Subcision" surgery was invented to get rid of indentations in the face (such as acne scarring), and one dermatologist took that technology and applied it to dimples in the buttocks. For subcision, you anesthetize the area, then you take a special needle - a Nokor needle, which looks kind of like a little hatchet - so you can make a small incision and, moving it back and forth, you can cut the skin from the tissue holding down, getting rid of the dimples. .

Chelating shampoos energize your scalp and flick your hair back to life! A chelating shampoo is a type of hair shampoo that contains chelating agents to remove minerals, metals, and other impurities from your hair and scalp. These agents bind to the impurities and wash them away when you rinse out the shampoo. Chelating shampoos are usually more acidic than regular shampoos and may contain ingredients like EDTA. EDTA is a colorless water-soluble solid that dissolves limescale and ions. Your list of ingredients will include EDTA (Ethylenediaminetetraacetic Acid) in the name; Tetrasodium EDTA or Disodium EDTA. EDTA is a chemical that binds and holds on to (chelates) minerals and metals such as chromium, iron, lead, mercury, copper, aluminum, nickel, zinc, calcium, cobalt, manganese, and magnesium. A chelating shampoo works just like an exfoliating face wash. It does more heavy lifting than your regular shampoo. A chelating-based shampoo deploys active molecules called chelating agents. These agents grab onto minerals, dirt particles, and leftover shampoos to make a new ring structure. They form a cage around the nasty stuff, withdrawing gunk, slime, minerals, and residues that build up in your hair from all the things that like to stick to or damage your hair and scalp, including: Hard water showers. Minerals-heavy well water. Chemical services. Copper residues from water pipes. Daily gels, hair sprays. Skin shedding. Color depositing shampoos. Oral medications Take a close look at your scalp, you may see these residues. They don't only coat your scalp. They also form an invisible sticky layer around your hair strands. And to make it worse, the stickiness attracts dust and dirt like a magnet. It makes your hair more greasy and your scalp itchy and flaky. Want proof? Your hair brush can definitely tell a tale or two. Besides looking like a graveyard for your shedding hair, you'll also find dust and yellowish blobs that come from your hair. Washing your hair twice a month with a good chelating shampoo will get rid of dust, residues from sprays, gels, and other stuff you put in your hair, and mineral residues from hard water. The results: . Easier glide through knots. No crunchy hard water hair. Your conditioner will work much better. Flat ironing your hair will be faster - improves glide without all the gunk! Hair appears fuller - the volume is because of less weight on the hair.